Sesbellot > Lab Report

COMPARISON STUDY BETWEEN DIFFERENT OILS ON BEHALF THEIR PENETRATION POWER INTO HUMAN SKIN

CHEMICAL ASPECTS OF MINK OIL

ADVANTAGES OF MINK OIL AS INGREDIENT IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS

FREIE UNIVERSITY BERLIN MINK OIL STUDY

REPORT OF ANALYSIS

Study made in collaboration with Services of Laboratory of Chemistry and Bacteriology of City of Gent, department of Belgium Ministry of Health.

ADVANTAGES OF MINK OIL AS INGREDIENT IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS

SPREADABILITY

Mink Oil has a spreading coefficient: on water of approx. 2 times that of IPM (Isopropyl Myristate), and 3 times that of European Sesbellot?Mink Oil of identical viscosity.

OXIDATION STABILITY

Mink Oil lays much higher than most of other animal oils. This not withstanding characteristics due to the nature of Mink Oil: containing 70-80% unsaturated fats and having an iodine value of 80 to 95.

Its oxidation stability was confirmed by A.O.M. test (active oxygen method) which consists in heating oil at 98.7°C while bubbling a constant stream of air through it. Periodically peroxide Values(PV) are determined until PV=20. This PV is expressed as milli equivalents (Meq) of Peroxide per Kg of oil. A.O.M. numbers of hours of accelerated oxidative treatment of the oil.

OIL	PV = 20 eached in hours
Lard	4
Cottonseed oil	5
Safflower oil	10 - 12
Corn oil	12 - 25
Peanut Oil	20
Wheat Germs Oil	25 - 30
Sesame Oil	36
Mink Oil	40 - 50

A very effective, natural anti-oxidizer (blend of alpha, beta, gamma tocopherol) is added when melting the mink fat. This allows keeping the Mink Oil smelling perfectly fresh for 12 to 18 months when stored in airtight sealed and at temperature of 14 to 18°C. This storage durability time is 24 months and more for Mink Oil in sealed glass bottles under carton cover (retail packaging).

The F.F.A. (free fatty acids) coefficient calculated on Mink Oil taken out of normal daily production shows 0.05 to 0.1%(Oleic acid).

UV ABSORPTION CAPACITY

UV absorption capacity of Mink Oil: another of its characteristics. It lays much higher than any other commonly used animal ingredients. Even higher than oils such as sesame, avocado, since long times used for sunscreen formulations. It shows distinct UV absorption peak sat 2070-2080µm. In operative concentration ranges of 5 to 10% Mink Oil, it releases a thin continuous film coating the body evenly due to its favorable Mink Oil used in sun protective formulations completed with special UV sunscreen a most wonderful products: perfectly protecting & caring.

EMULSIFICATION

Emulsification of Mink Oil gives no special problem owing to its high polarity, it shows an ease of emulsification comparable to the best cosmetic esters and highly unsaturated triglycerides. Its HLB number is 9-its saponification number range between 195-200.

Solubilisation of Mink Oil is almost comparable to that of highly unsaturated triglycerides. It is perfectly soluble in animal, vegetable, and mineral oils, in cosmetic fatty esters such as IPM and also in various waxes. It is partly soluble in Isopropanol and ethanol by using suitable cosolvents(such as Lactate Esters). It is not soluble in water, glycerine.

For aerosols, Mink Oil is miscible in reasonable amounts in Ethanol-Propellant 12(but not in 14). This leading to possibility of various aerosols formulations.